Our visa extensions were running out, so our time in Thailand was coming to a close. We had elected to cross the border from Thailand to Laos, and take a slow boat along the Mekong River. This would be a journey spanning a few days and would eventually take us to Luang Prabang, a small city nestled in the center of Laos.
Our last morning in Chiang Rai began with a frantic dash to the bus station. We had to make sure we could get the earliest bus to the Thai – Laos Friendship Bridge No. 4. There used to be a bus that would leave around 6am, but these days the earliest is later, at around 8am. We hoped if we caught this one, we’d still be able to catch the boat from Huay Xai, the border town on the Laos side.
The bus didn’t fill up right away, but we made sure to get a ticket and load our luggage onto the bus. Before we left we took the opportunity for one last cigarette on Thai soil, only to find the whole area was blanketed in No Smoking signs, and spent too long running around to find a spot to smoke. When we saw a security guard smoking in front of one of the signs, we realised the rules weren’t being enforced. Taking this as implicit permission, we lit up for that one last nicotine hit.
We still had time, so I rushed to the nearest 7-11 to get some snacks before the journey. When we finally boarded the bus we saw that it actually had filled up, so if you’re planning to do the same as we did, then make sure you get a ticket around an hour before the bus leaves.
The bus, a relic of countless journeys, groaned under its own weight. Rust streaked its sides, and small fans dangled from the ceiling, valiantly combating the rising heat.1 Despite the crowded seats, a surprising amount of legroom made the ride bearable. With a heavy chug, the engine roared to life, and we were off, weaving through the outskirts of Chiang Rai and into the green of rural Thailand.
The view en route was mostly a sea of green rice paddies stretching out before forest-covered mountains. We wound through a few small villages and a house dotted here or there along the way. The ride to the bridge takes around 2-3 hours, so it’s wise to bring some reading material or something to listen to. I tend to get carsick, so I opted for a podcast instead of reading.
You will have to go through Thailand’s immigration before you cross the bridge. There weren’t many people with us since it was low season for tourism, so getting through was fairly quick. I did have trouble though, the border officer kept demanding the receipt from when I extended my visa.
I didn’t have it, as I thought the stamp in the passport was all I needed, but apparently not. After searching my bags for this piece of paper, and apologising because I didn’t have it, the immigration officer reluctantly stamped me out of the country. He didn’t seem happy about it, though. A lesson learned the hard way: always keep every scrap of paper issued with your visa. The absence of one nearly left me stranded in that strange space between borders.
Once on the other side of the border we had to purchase a bus ticket to cross the Thai – Laos Friendship Bridge No. 4. I’m not sure if you can walk, but at less than a dollar the cost seemed more symbolic than practical. While we waited for the next bus, I joked that we could probably just go back into Thailand and get a new visa if we wanted to save the money.2
As we rode the bus across the bridge, I couldn’t shake a bittersweet feeling. Thailand is home to many of my friends I first met in Shanghai. Many moved here after Shanghai’s brutal lockdowns. Thailand had become a place of friendship and familiarity. But the call to explore was louder than my reluctance to leave. Ahead lay Laos. An unknown and intriguing country, waiting to teach me something new.
Once across the bridge we were on the Laos border. We had prepared US dollars for this part, but this was where we learned how picky people in Laos can be about their dollars. Any slight mark or scuff on the note and they will not accept it. It has to be in pristine condition, almost as good as new. Thankfully they also accept Thai Baht and aren’t as picky about these notes.
My visa was 50 USD, whereas my wife’s was only 25 USD. We quickly learned there was an actual trade-off for this. As she’s a Chinese tourist, she only gets right to remain for one month rather than the usual 2 months people from most other countries get. At least the price is adjusted to take it into consideration.
Once through the other side it was time to get to the nearest town. A fleet of tuk tuks was waiting for us after we got through the immigration checks. It seemed well organised, and they charged a standard price for all of us to get to the town. I still got the impression it was still overpriced, however.
As the tuk-tuk sped toward Huay Xai, I found myself glancing back at the bridge, a symbolic threshold between two worlds. We were already travelling alongside the Mekong River, and could still see Thailand on the other side. A giant gold buddha stood atop a hill on the Thai side, overlooking the river toward Laos, toward us.
Once in Huay Xai, our next step of the journey would be to board the slow boat. Unfortunately, we had missed it – the journey and the immigration checks took too long. So we found a place near the port to get some food and take a rest while we figured out a hotel for the night. There was a cheap one nearby. The room wasn’t great and had no Wifi, but it was only one night.
Since we were there for the day, we took some time to explore the town. It was a small town with a few vegetable markets, a couple of convenience stores and some small local restaurants. There were no 7-11s in sight, a clear sign we were no longer in Thailand. One or two bars were hidden along the main road through the town, with signs pointing the way to them. One such sign led us to a nice rooftop bar where we would take a few drinks and enjoy a view of the Mekong River.
What had started as a rushed day to try and catch the boat, ended in a relaxed night in a small town, enjoying a beer while taking in the view of Thailand turning on its lights as night fell. The next day we will be travelling along the river, and the border, so Thailand would still be nearby for a while.
With these thoughts we went back to the hotel for some much needed sleep. Tomorrow, as we embark on the slow boat down the Mekong, we’ll catch our first real glimpse of Laos—its riverbanks, its rhythm, and its secrets waiting to unfold.
